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Showing posts with label ford. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ford. Show all posts

Friday, April 24, 2015

How to Change the Rear Brake Shoes on a 2006 Ford Taurus

How to Change the Rear Brake Shoes on a 2006 Ford Taurus

The Ford Motor Company introduced the first Taurus in 1986. By 2006, the Ford Taurus camp equipped with the option of two versions of the 3.0-liter V-6 engine. The 2006 Ford Taurus came standard with front ventilated disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Replacing the rear brake shoes on the 2006 Taurus can be challenging, and requires someone with prior mechanical experience. When replacing the brake shoes on the 2006 Taurus, replace all of the hardware associated with the rear drum brakes to ensure optimum operation and performance.

Instructions

    1

    Ensure the vehicle is in park and then loosen the rear wheel nuts with a tire iron. Raise the rear of the Taurus with a jack. Place jack stands beneath both ends of the rear axle beam. Leave yourself enough room to access the backing plate behind the rear wheels. Lower the car onto the jack stands. Remove the rear wheel nuts and remove the rear wheels from the Taurus.

    2

    Remove the rubber plug from the backing plate on one side of the Taurus. Insert a flat-head screwdriver. Set the tip of the screwdriver against the self adjust wheel inside the drum assembly. Push the "star" shaped adjuster downward to back the brake shoes inward, away from the brake drums. Tap the brake drum sides toward the front of the car and toward the rear of the car with a hammer.

    3

    Remove the old brake drum and set it with its opening downward, in order to dump all of the rust and brake dust out. Remove the parking brake cable from the parking brake lever, at the bottom of the brake assembly. Use a flat-head screwdriver to pull the parking brake lever up and outward from the brake assembly. Twist the lever to remove it from the cable.

    4

    Remove the two hold-down spring at the 3 oclock and 9 oclock positions, in the middle of the brake shoe supports. Use a circular brake spring remover to pull both springs. Remove the retractor spring from between the two shoes, using a brake spring hook toward the bottom of the brake assembly. Remove the retractor spring from between the two brake shoes at the top of the brake assembly, using the same tool.

    5

    Slide the brake shoes outward, away from the center of the brake assembly. Remove the self-adjuster wheel assembly from between the shoes, just behind the wheel hub assembly. Remove both rear brake shoes from the vehicle. Remove the spring retainer pin from the forward brake shoe, using a hammer and screwdriver to punch the pin out.

    6

    Remove the parking-brake lever pin from the other brake shoe with a pair of pliers. Pull the horseshoe pin from the brake shoe and discard it. Remove the pin from the brake shoe. Remove both brake shoes from the Taurus and throw them out.

    7

    Visually inspect the wheel cylinder at the top of the remaining brake assembly. If there is any moisture on or around the cylinder, this may indicate bad seals. Replace the wheel cylinders as needed.

    8

    Install the parking brake lever and pin into the new brake shoe. The brake shoes come four to a box. The two shorter shoes face the front of the vehicle, while the longer shoes face the rear. Insert a new horseshoe clip to lock the parking brake lever on the new shoe. Attach the parking brake cable to the rear facing brake shoe, once you have installed the lever onto the shoe.

    9

    Install the new brake shoes one at a time and insert new hold-down springs and pins. Use the circular brake spring tool to twist the spring end caps so they lock the hold-down pins in place. Turn one end of the self-adjuster wheel so that the adjuster assembly contracts to a smaller size, in order to allow room to install the drums on the new brake shoes. Install the self-adjuster in between the mounted shoes, with the wider slot facing the front of the car.

    10

    Install the brake tension springs between the upper and lower ends of the new brake shoes, using a brake spring tool.

    11

    Stretch the tape measure straight across the opening of the brake drum. If the brake drum opening is larger than 8 and 15/16-inches, discard the drums and replace them. Install the drums over the new brake shoes. Make adjustments in the rear of the brake assembly, using the self-adjuster hole in the backing plate. Turn the self-adjuster until you can no longer turn the brake drum by hand.

    12

    Install the wheel on the car where you just completed the brake shoe replacement. Install the lug nuts snug with a tire iron. Turn the wheel by hand. If the wheel turns around one full rotation and stops, the brakes are adjusted properly. If the wheel turns more than once, the brakes need tightening. If the wheel turns less than once, the brakes need loosening. Repeat the step until you have properly adjusted the brake assembly on the first side of the car.

    13

    Repeat Steps 2 through 12 to complete the brake shoe replacement on the second side of the Taurus. Enter the car and pump the brake pedal five to ten times to complete the seating of the brake shoes against the drums. Install both rubber stoppers back into the backing plates on the rear of the car.

    14

    Raise the Taurus off the jack stands, and lower the car to the ground. Tighten the rear wheel lug nuts to 95-foot-pounds of torque, using a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench and wheel nut socket.

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Friday, April 17, 2015

How to Change the Master Cylinder on a Ford F 250

How to Change the Master Cylinder on a Ford F-250

Ford equipped the F-250 trucks brake system with a dual-piston master cylinder. The master cylinder consists of a fluid reservoir and a cylinder body. The reservoir holds brake fluid for use by the hydraulic pistons and allows a visual check of the fluid level. The dual-piston system--one for the front brakes and one for the rear--operates when pressure is applied to the brake pedal. Hydraulic pressure from the master cylinder actuates the caliper pistons in the wheels which then press friction pads against the brake rotors to slow down the truck. Replace the master cylinder in the case of its wear or failure to keep the trucks brakes functioning as intended.

Instructions

Replace Master Cylinder

    1

    Raise the hood and disconnect the batterys negative cable with a wrench.

    2

    Loosen the hose clamp on the air cleaners outlet tube with a screwdriver, then position the tube aside out of the way. Squeeze the tabs on the mass air-flow sensors connector, then pull the connector apart. Remove the air-cleaner housing and set it aside.

    3

    Disconnect the fluid-level sensors connector from the side of the master cylinder. Disconnect the brake-pressure switchs connector, if there is one, from the bottom of the master cylinder.

    4

    Remove the brake lines from the side of the master cylinder with a wrench.

    5

    Remove the master cylinders mounting nuts with a wrench, then remove the master cylinder.

    6

    Reverse the disassembly procedure to install the new master cylinder. Tighten the mounting nuts to 20 ft-lbs. with a torque wrench. Tighten the brake lines to 18 ft-lbs.

Bleed Brakes

    7

    Unscrew the cap on the master cylinder. Fill the master cylinder to the full line with brake fluid.

    8

    Place a box-end wrench over the bleed valve on the right-rear wheel. Attach the rubber hose to the bleed valve and submerge the other end of the hose into a cup or small container partially filled with brake fluid.

    9

    Employ your helper to slowly and gently pump the brake pedal a few strokes, then hold the pedal down. Turn the wrench to open the bleed valve. Watch the brake fluid in the container. Close the valve when air bubbles stop coming out the end of the tube. Repeat this step until no more air bubbles come out. Tighten the bleed valve to 26 ft-lbs. Check the level of brake fluid in the master cylinder. Top off the level as necessary.

    10

    Repeat steps 2 and 3 on the left-rear wheel, then the right-front wheel, then on the left-front wheel.

    11

    Replace the cap on the master cylinder. Pump the brakes to be certain there is a solid brake pedal before before moving the vehicle.

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How to Do a Brake Job on a 2000 Ford Mustang

Attention to detail is key in a trouble-free brake job on the 2000 Ford Mustang. Equipped with four-wheel disc brakes and a Bosch 5.3 anti-lock braking system, the Mustang finally received the stopping power it needed. In exchange for this refinement, tolerances in areas such as maximum allowable run-out are very tight when compared to previous Mustangs. Resurfacing or replacement of the brake rotors and special care when replacing the brake pads cannot be overlooked when servicing the brake system on this car.

Instructions

Front brakes

    1

    Position wheel chocks behind and in front of the rear wheels. Loosen the front lug-nuts one half turn. Do not remove them at this time. Raise the front of the vehicle, using a floor jack, until the front wheels are off the ground. Slide jack stands under the front sub-frame and lower the car onto the jack stands. Remove the front wheels and place them aside to prevent tripping hazards.

    2

    Remove the rubber dust boots that cover the caliper slide pins, and unbolt the two 10 millimeter slide pins that attach the caliper to the caliper bracket. Use a large screwdriver to pry the caliper up and off the rotor. Hang the caliper out of the way using a piece of stiff wire or coat hanger. Remove the large bolts that attach the caliper bracket to the steering knuckle. Remove the caliper bracket and slide the rotor off the hub assembly.

    3

    Take the brake rotors to your local auto parts store or repair shop and have them checked for thickness and run-out. Maximum allowable run-out is 0.001 inch on the front rotors. Minimum thickness is 0.970 inch on the front rotors and 0.500 on the rear rotors. Replace the rotor if it cannot be machined to these specifications. Rotors that are too thin will warp easily, and rotors that have excessive run-out will cause brake pedal pulsations and decreased brake efficiency.

    4

    Slip the brake rotor onto the hub assembly. Position the caliper bracket over the rotor and bolt it securely to the steering knuckle. Place the new pads into the bracket.

    5

    Open the bleeder screw on the top of the caliper and use a C-clamp to push the caliper piston into the caliper housing. Close the bleeder screw and remove the C-clamp. Apply a small amount of silicon brake grease to the slide pins. Slide the caliper over the new pads, and bolt it to the caliper bracket using the 10 millimeter slide pins

    6

    Replace the wheels and lower the car to the ground. Tighten the lug nuts one final time with the car sitting on the ground.

Rear Brakes

    7

    Lift the rear of the vehicle in the same manner described in Section 1. Place the jack stands under the rear axle tubes and lower the car onto them. Remove the rear wheels and place them out of the work area.

    8

    Remove the two 10 millimeter slide pins that attach the caliper to the rear caliper bracket. Pry the caliper off the rotor using a large screwdriver. Slide the brake rotor off the hub assembly. and have it measured and machined. The maximum allowable run-out for the rear rotors is 0.002 inch, and minimum thickness is 0.500. Replace any rotor that doesnt meet this specification.

    9

    Open the bleeder screw on top of the caliper. The rear caliper is equipped with an actuator for the parking brakes and requires the piston to be screwed into the caliper housing. Use a caliper piston tool to twist and push the caliper piston into the caliper housing.

    10

    Install the new pads onto the caliper bracket and slip the caliper into place. Apply a small amount of silicon brake grease to the slide pin bolts and bolt the caliper to the bracket.

    11

    Replace the rear wheels and lower the car to the ground. Tighten the lug nuts one final time.

    12

    Top off the brake fluid in the master cylinder and pump the brake pedal to expand the calipers into the pads.

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2005 FORD F 150

2005FORD F-150 Sanford FL 407-321-0660 For more information on this vehicle and our full inventory, call Bob Manbeck at 407-321-0660. Gibson Truck World 3455 South Orlando Drive Sanford, FL 32773 Dont pay more for a non-serviced, cheap imitation Gibson Truck World is the only dealer that gives a FREE 12 MONTH BUMPERTO BUMPER WARRANTY ALONG WITH 12 MONTHS FREE MAINTENANCE AND OUREXCLUSIVE 15 DAY RETURN POLICY, riding on 4 new tires, adjustable pedal, back up sensors, floor shift, Sony CD player, overhead storage, leather power seats, power sliding rear window, all your power options, wood grain trim, keyless entry, chrome nerf bars, roll on Tonneau cover, bed liner, towing package, The King Of Trucks!!! 407-321-0660 or toll free at 1-866-442-7667 AT GIBSON TRUCK WORLD, AN EDUCATED CONSUMER IS OUR BEST CUSTOMER Repair Description: 135 Point Inspection Lube Oil and Filter Replaced Air Filter Replaced Wiper Blades Replaced Master Power Window Switch Replaced Front and Rear Pads Turned Rotors Replaced Reverse Light Bulb Replaced Door Lock Actuator Replaced Right Hand Upper Ball Joint Alignment Total Invested = $861.58

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Changing rotors and breaks on 1998 Ford F 150

Changing rotors and breaks on 1998 Ford F 150 Tube. Duration : 10.62 Mins.





How to change breaks and rotors on a 1998 Ford F-150



Keywords: brake pads, job, ford 1998 F 150, change rotors, change brakes, ronnie rokk
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