DBA Tech Talk Video Episode 1 Part 4 Fitting a brake disc rotor www dba com au

www.dba.com.au Part 4 training video showing how to fit a DBA hat type disc brake rotor to a vehicle. Part of a series with training, tips and tricks showing how best to fit, remove or replace any stock, OEM or aftermarket disc brake rotor.

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How to Identify WRX 7087 Brake Pads

In order to change brake pads in your Subaru WRX 7087, youll need to identify them and know where they are on your vehicle. Brake pad installation is a fairly straightforward repair that can be completed without a mechanic. Once youve identified your brake pads, you can begin shopping around. If you choose to shop at local stores, it will be helpful to remove a brake pad and bring it with you so that store associates can match your current brake pad with the correct type of brake pad.

Instructions

1

Push the floor jack underneath one side of your WRX 7087 so that you can lift it off the ground. Jack it up high enough to remove a tire and set your jack stands on both ends so that the car is stable and wont drop to the ground if the floor jack is moved.

2

Remove the lug nuts from your tire and place them in a safe location. Youll need to put them back on when your repair is finished.

3

Pull the tire off and place it aside.

4

Notice that your brake pads are bound to your brake by the caliper. The caliper is secured in place by some bolts, which will need to be taken off to get to your brake pads.

5

Unscrew the bolts securing the brake pads to the brake and remove the caliper.

6

Turn the caliper over. Youll see that your two brake pads are attached by one or two bolts.

7

Unscrew the bolts on the back of the caliper by using your wrench. Loosen and take these bolts off and remove your brake pads.

8

Shop for new brake pads. You can bring the pads with you to find the model type that suits you and compare prices. Once new pads are purchased, you can install them by re-attaching them to the caliper and installing the caliper back onto the brake.

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Brake Vibration In The Mitsubishi Eclipse

The Mitsubishi Eclipse comes standard with front ventilated disc brakes. These brakes function by calipers pressing brake pads against the spinning rotor to stop the vehicle. Over time, slight imperfections can cause a brake vibration.

Cause

Brake vibration is caused only by one thing: excessive run-out on the rotor. The run-out is the difference between the thickest and thinnest part of the rotors disc. The Eclipse has a maximum rotor run-out of .002 to .003 inches, depending on the year.

Material Transfer

Material transfer is far and away the most common reason for excessive run out. This happens when friction material from the brake pad adheres to a section of the rotor, typically due to excessive rotor heat.

Repair

There are only two ways to repair excessive rotor run-out. The first way to repair it is to use a lathe to cut a small amount of the rotors surface off and make it flat again. This can only be done if the disc thickness is at least .882 to .96 inches, depending on the year. If the rotor falls below that specification, the only way to repair the vibration it is to replace the rotor.

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Taking a Brake

MyPeugeot308 is almost 3yrs OTR and has just clocked 50,000km. Prior to the scheduled service it is the right time to replace front brake pads even though all pads are still usable up to at least 6000km more.

comparison between worn-out and fresh front brakepads

Why 6000km more?

The answer is because the remaining pad thickness is still more than 1 mm above wear limit. For instance, by measurement the average brake pad consumption is around 1 mm/6000km. This guide is valid for genuine pads and only if 308T is not driven on busy streets [or in towns/cities] where the right foot is spent more time on brake pedal than on the accelerator!.

Ready for the installation.
There is not much wear/damage on the stock rotors even after 50,000km of abuse. A little skimming job is good enough to recond them.
I still prefer genuine brake pads.

DIY Installation is complete...



Click HERE for more info on brake pads/discs and to see how to remove them.

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How to Fix a Stuck Emergency Brake

Nothing can be more distressing than having something wrong with your vehicles brakes. Having a stuck emergency brake obviously isnt as dangerous as having your brakes go out on you while driving, but its a serious problem that must be dealt with accordingly. Its not exceptionally difficult to fix a stuck emergency brake, but its of great importance to get your vehicle in working order again.

Instructions

1

Put your vehicle in park, and engage the emergency brake if possible.

2

Place a small block in front of or behind the rear wheels to keep the vehicle from rolling forward or backwards.

3

Release the parking brake (if engaged) and then remove the switch panel from your center console. This may require you to remove a few screws and/or clips holding your trim panels in place.

4

Locate the brake adjuster directly below the center console. It is a small bolt head that you will adjust clockwise until the brake shoes are almost expanded against the drum.

5

Leave just enough space between the brake shoes and the drum to allow the drum free range to rotate.

6

Rotate the adjustment wheel below the parking brake until the brake is completely operational.

7

Test the parking brake to settle the brake shoes and make sure that it is operating on the third notch of the ratchet (emergency brake lever). You should hear three clicks, indicating the third notch.

8

Replace all of the necessary panels back in their rightful location and remove the blocks behind your rear wheels.

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How to Change brake pads! more or less

Some extra footage from todays vlog on Kazilas channel. youtube.com/user/kazila

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How to Replace the Rear Brake Rotors on a 1993 Lumina

The process for removing the rotors from the rear wheels is essentially the same as that for the front wheels on the Chevy Lumina. The disc brakes on the automobile are much easier to manage than drum brakes. This is primarily because there are no springs to deal with. You wouldnt usually change the brake rotors without changing the brake pads as well. However, you still may need to replace the rotors for one reason or another. It doesnt take very long, but when you do need to replace one, you should replace the rotors on both wheels on that axle at the same time.

Instructions

1

Park the car on a level surface and place the wheel chocks in front of the front wheels. Place a jack stand under the car and raise it up to the frame close to the jacking point.

2

Remove the wheel using the lug wrench and set it off to the side. Remove the brake caliper using a socket and ratchet to loosen the caliper bolts. Secure the caliper to the spring or shock absorber using a wire tie. You should never allow the caliper to hang or you will damage the brake line.

3

Pull the old rotor off of the wheel assembly by pulling it straight out. If it doesnt come off easily, use the rubber mallet to hit it until it breaks loose.

4

Put the new rotor on the wheel assembly. Place the brake caliper on the wheel assembly over the rotor and tighten the bolts with the socket and ratchet. Put the wheel back on the car and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench.

5

Remove the jack stand from under the car and lower the vehicle to the ground. Repeat the process on the other wheel.

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How to Paint Brake Calipers

Many automobile owners like the idea of modifying their cars in some way that makes them unique among the thousands of similar cars. However, many of these modifications can be prohibitively expensive. Painting your brake calipers, however, is very affordable. It is easy enough that professional know-how is not required, and it provides a subtle but distinct look to your vehicle.

Instructions

1

Select the color of spray paint for your brake calipers. Remember that some types of spray paint are more suited for metal application than others. If you are confused, consult an employee at your hardware store about the effectiveness of the paints and how much paint you will need.

2

Loosen the lug nuts holding the tire to the wheel one or two turns. You will need to remove the tire in order to access the brake calipers.

3

Raise the vehicle off the ground. Since you will only be painting one brake caliper at a time, a car jack may be used, but it is not recommended. If you do use a car jack, make sure you know how secure it is and exercise caution when placing a hand under the car.

4

Unscrew the lug nuts the rest of the way, then remove the tire from the axle. Make sure that the lug nuts are located in a safe area to prevent loss.

5

Prepare the brake caliper for painting by scouring it with the wire brush and then by rubbing it with a rag and cleaning solution. How clean the brake caliper is will determine the effectiveness of the paint job.

6

Locate the bolts holding the brake caliper to its support. Loosen and remove the bolts using the ratchet.

7

Remove the brake caliper from its support and then clean it again, checking for any areas you may have missed the first time.

8

Avoid stressing the brake line at all costs. Setting the brake caliper on the rotor is the easiest solution. However, it can prove to be problematic when finally painting the brake caliper. A better solution is to use a coat hanger to suspend the caliper in the wheel well.

9

Apply newspaper and masking tape to the area surrounding the brake caliper. While there is no one right method as to how to mask the area, make sure that the adhesive on the masking tape will not affect any areas to which it is stuck.

10

Paint the brake caliper using the spray paint in the color of your choice. Allow time for the paint to dry and then spray on a second coat. A third coat of paint is not necessary, but it is recommended.

11

Reattach the brake caliper to the support after the paint has dried. Then replace the wheel on the vehicle and lower the vehicle to the ground.

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HOW TO CHANGE BRAKE PADS ON A 9th Gen 2003 2008 TOYOTA COROLLA

HOW TO CHANGE BRAKE PADS ON A 9th Gen 2003 - 2008 TOYOTA COROLLA Video Clips. Duration : 3.38 Mins.

in less than 5 minutes..........

Tags: HOW TO, BRAKE, PAD, TOYOTA, COROLLA, pads, how-to, change, itsdamianlol, paintball, weapon, gun, electronics, howto, war games, diy, warfare, consoles, airsoft, car, cars, lexus, online

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How to Change the Rear Brake Shoes on a 2006 Ford Taurus

The Ford Motor Company introduced the first Taurus in 1986. By 2006, the Ford Taurus camp equipped with the option of two versions of the 3.0-liter V-6 engine. The 2006 Ford Taurus came standard with front ventilated disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Replacing the rear brake shoes on the 2006 Taurus can be challenging, and requires someone with prior mechanical experience. When replacing the brake shoes on the 2006 Taurus, replace all of the hardware associated with the rear drum brakes to ensure optimum operation and performance.

Instructions

1

Ensure the vehicle is in park and then loosen the rear wheel nuts with a tire iron. Raise the rear of the Taurus with a jack. Place jack stands beneath both ends of the rear axle beam. Leave yourself enough room to access the backing plate behind the rear wheels. Lower the car onto the jack stands. Remove the rear wheel nuts and remove the rear wheels from the Taurus.

2

Remove the rubber plug from the backing plate on one side of the Taurus. Insert a flat-head screwdriver. Set the tip of the screwdriver against the self adjust wheel inside the drum assembly. Push the "star" shaped adjuster downward to back the brake shoes inward, away from the brake drums. Tap the brake drum sides toward the front of the car and toward the rear of the car with a hammer.

3

Remove the old brake drum and set it with its opening downward, in order to dump all of the rust and brake dust out. Remove the parking brake cable from the parking brake lever, at the bottom of the brake assembly. Use a flat-head screwdriver to pull the parking brake lever up and outward from the brake assembly. Twist the lever to remove it from the cable.

4

Remove the two hold-down spring at the 3 oclock and 9 oclock positions, in the middle of the brake shoe supports. Use a circular brake spring remover to pull both springs. Remove the retractor spring from between the two shoes, using a brake spring hook toward the bottom of the brake assembly. Remove the retractor spring from between the two brake shoes at the top of the brake assembly, using the same tool.

5

Slide the brake shoes outward, away from the center of the brake assembly. Remove the self-adjuster wheel assembly from between the shoes, just behind the wheel hub assembly. Remove both rear brake shoes from the vehicle. Remove the spring retainer pin from the forward brake shoe, using a hammer and screwdriver to punch the pin out.

6

Remove the parking-brake lever pin from the other brake shoe with a pair of pliers. Pull the horseshoe pin from the brake shoe and discard it. Remove the pin from the brake shoe. Remove both brake shoes from the Taurus and throw them out.

7

Visually inspect the wheel cylinder at the top of the remaining brake assembly. If there is any moisture on or around the cylinder, this may indicate bad seals. Replace the wheel cylinders as needed.

8

Install the parking brake lever and pin into the new brake shoe. The brake shoes come four to a box. The two shorter shoes face the front of the vehicle, while the longer shoes face the rear. Insert a new horseshoe clip to lock the parking brake lever on the new shoe. Attach the parking brake cable to the rear facing brake shoe, once you have installed the lever onto the shoe.

9

Install the new brake shoes one at a time and insert new hold-down springs and pins. Use the circular brake spring tool to twist the spring end caps so they lock the hold-down pins in place. Turn one end of the self-adjuster wheel so that the adjuster assembly contracts to a smaller size, in order to allow room to install the drums on the new brake shoes. Install the self-adjuster in between the mounted shoes, with the wider slot facing the front of the car.

10

Install the brake tension springs between the upper and lower ends of the new brake shoes, using a brake spring tool.

11

Stretch the tape measure straight across the opening of the brake drum. If the brake drum opening is larger than 8 and 15/16-inches, discard the drums and replace them. Install the drums over the new brake shoes. Make adjustments in the rear of the brake assembly, using the self-adjuster hole in the backing plate. Turn the self-adjuster until you can no longer turn the brake drum by hand.

12

Install the wheel on the car where you just completed the brake shoe replacement. Install the lug nuts snug with a tire iron. Turn the wheel by hand. If the wheel turns around one full rotation and stops, the brakes are adjusted properly. If the wheel turns more than once, the brakes need tightening. If the wheel turns less than once, the brakes need loosening. Repeat the step until you have properly adjusted the brake assembly on the first side of the car.

13

Repeat Steps 2 through 12 to complete the brake shoe replacement on the second side of the Taurus. Enter the car and pump the brake pedal five to ten times to complete the seating of the brake shoes against the drums. Install both rubber stoppers back into the backing plates on the rear of the car.

14

Raise the Taurus off the jack stands, and lower the car to the ground. Tighten the rear wheel lug nuts to 95-foot-pounds of torque, using a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench and wheel nut socket.

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Vacuum booster for brake servo

My brake car perform poorly.
Previously I have replace single layer  servo with double layer servo.
But I seem it did not change anything.
Then I remember there is an aftermarket product (2nd picture) to increase vacuum for brake servo.

I use water bottle to replicate that product.

Connect a hose to the bottle end and the other hose connect to brake hose (connect after one way valve).

AAs a result, I can feel better brake performance and less use feet power to brake.

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How to Fix Brake Pads in a Kia Sportage

Brake pads are a component of disc braking systems. These alloy-made pieces are compressed against a rotor to cause the vehicles wheels to stop spinning. Due to the mechanical pressure and heat, brake pads always wear out eventually, and fixing them in the interim is occasionally necessary to retain proper braking function. While full replacement is generally recommended, you can also repair certain braking problems on your Kia Sportage if you have a bit of mechanical knowledge.

Instructions

1

Place the wheel blocks opposite of the end that the vehicle needs to be lifted. Loosen the wheel lugs on the wheel that needs to be removed to access the brake pads using the 1/2-inch ratchet wrench and lug socket. Raise the vehicle using the hydraulic lift and place the jack stands at structure points for extra security.

2

Remove the lugs from the wheel and slide the wheel underneath the vehicle. Remove the metal caliper clip using a slotted screwdriver and pull the caliper off the rotor assembly. Use a rubber mallet to gently tap the caliper if it is stuck in place. Remove the brake pads using a slotted screwdriver, prying them away from the piston seats.

3

Apply dime-sized amounts of brake pad glue to the back of both brake pads for brakes that rattle while the brake pedal is not applied. The glue will prevent the pads from rattling away from the piston seats. Firmly seat the pads back into the piston seats and allow them to sit for approximately five minutes before reassembling the caliper.

4

Run your hand over the brake pad surface for pads that are noisy or squeak while the brake pedal is applied. Feel for any rough or high spots on the pad. Use a piece of 200-grit sandpaper to scrub the pad. Continue to rub the pad until the high spot is gone. Place the pads into the caliper piston seats and reassemble.

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How to Install a Brake Booster

A brake booster is a device that provides extra braking power using either an electric or hydraulic mechanism to "boost" the brake power you get from stepping on the brake pedal. Brake boosters often work on vacuum pressure, but they also work in tandem with your master cylinder--which holds your brake fluid--to push brake fluid through your brake system. Over time, your booster may develop a vacuum leak or fail completely. If this happens, youll need to know how to install a new one.

Instructions

1

Open the hood and locate the brake booster. This is usually a round-shaped disc about 3 to 4 inches in thickness, but may be larger depending on your vehicle. It will be attached to the brake master cylinder on the firewall, usually on the drivers side.

2

Loosen and remove the tube nuts holding the brake line to the master cylinder with the open-ended wrench. There are four of these (four brake lines) that you will have to remove. Make sure you make note of where the lines are being disconnected from because they will have to be reconnected to the same area you removed them from. You may want to use masking tape and a permanent marker to mark the location of where the brake lines came from. Youll have to turn each tube nut counterclockwise to loosen and be especially careful that you do not damage the end of the nut while you are loosening it. These nuts, which damage easily, are a critical component that secures your brake line to the master cylinder.

3

Unbolt the two bolts holding the master cylinder to the brake booster and remove the master cylinder. Be sure to catch the brake fluid that drips and do not get any on your vehicles paint.

4

Some brake boosters have bolts that you will be able to remove from the firewall. If your brake booster has these, unbolt them.

5

Unbolt the five or six--depending on your vehicle--nuts holding the brake booster in place under the dash behind your vehicles brake pedal. Some of these may be difficult to reach, but you should be able to get them all with a regular socket wrench. You may have to use a socket extender to reach these nuts on some vehicles.

6

Pull the retaining clip or pin holding the brake booster to the brake pedal. To do this, pull the clip holding the pin in place using pliers. Then tap the pin out with the end of the pliers. The brake pedal should now be free of the brake booster.

7

Pull the brake booster out of the firewall and out of the engine bay.

8

Lower the new brake booster into the engine bay where the old brake booster used to be. Align the mounting bolts with the holes in the firewall and slide the new brake booster into place so that it sits tight against the firewall.

9

Align the mounting bracket on the back of the brake pedal with the bracket on the brake booster (inside the vehicle). Slide the retaining pin through both brackets, connecting them together. Replace the clip holding the retaining pin in place. There is a small hole in one end of the pin. Push the retaining clip into this hole.

10

Replace the bolts you removed from the back of the brake booster underneath the dash and behind the brake pedal, and re-tighten them (clockwise). You may need to use a socket extension to reach these bolts.

11

Replace the bolts on the firewall (if your vehicle had them), and re-tighten (clockwise).

12

Slide the back of the master cylinder (there is a hole in the back) over the end of the brake booster piston and slide the master cylinder back until it sits flush against the brake booster.

13

Replace the master cylinder mounting bolts and re-tighten them (clockwise).

14

Replace the tube nuts into the areas where you initially removed them and re-tighten. When tightening tube nuts, turn them counterclockwise until you feel resistance. Then give them an additional one-quarter turn.

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Problems With Brake Lines

A brake system is composed of three primary elements: the master cylinder that sends fluid through the lines, the lines themselves, and the slave cylinders (brake calipers) that squeeze on the pad and stop the car. Though engineered to outlive the car by several years, lines can sometimes become rusted, damaged or dry-rotted, causing anything from a slow leak and soft pedal to a catastrophic accident.

Physical Damage

The most common type of physical damage is chafing (scraping) of the flexible rubber portion of the line that connects the wheel cylinder to the metal chassis lines. Though these lines are generally suspended by clips from the factory, these often plastic clips work loose or break, causing the line to rub against or become pinched by suspension components.

Dry-Rotting

Rubber brake lines are made of a vulcanized rubber very similar to a tires, and so are subject to dry-rotting. Over time, vital chemicals are leached from the rubber, causing it to lose its elasticity and form small cracks that may eventually leak. This condition is normal for cars of a certain age, but may be accelerated if the vehicle is regularly driven over salted winter roads.

Rust

Though brake lines are generally made of aluminized or galvanized metal, almost all will eventually rust over time. This will usually happen where the line passes through a low point in the frame, or where it is secured to the frame with a metal clip. Like dry rot, this is normal for older cars, but will happen significantly faster if the car is regularly driven over salted roads.

Artificial Corrosion

By definition, an acid is a chemical that dissolves metal. Many batteries, especially those found in older cars, leak a certain amount of acid. Though most of this acid is diluted and causes little harm to the vehicle, it is quite possible for some of the dried chemical to land on your brake lines, eating through their protective coatings and drastically hastening the corrosion process.

Line Upgrade

Steel-braided brake lines are the line of choice for replacing worn-out rubber, and are proven much safer. Not only will these flex lines far outlast their stock counterparts, they are also designed not to bulge as much under system pressure. This means you can expect a great deal more feel and response from a braking system with braided lines than one with stock rubber.

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1995 Buick LeSabre Brake Pad Repair

stores.channeladvisor.com Click the above link to find the brake pads for your vehicle. In this video well show you how to replace your old brake pads with a new set.

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Honda Brake Problems

All kinds of automobiles experience brake troubles and issues; vehicles manufactured by Honda are no exception. Spotting brake problems, however, does not have to be difficult. In fact, you can save time and money on repairs if you can tell when your car needs its brakes fixed before it becomes a major issue.

Issues

While it is not the most common problem among vehicles produced by Honda, brake problems do occur from time to time. These problems are typically characterized by noises in the brakes, such as rhythmic, constant brake noises and a spongy feeling upon applying pressure to the brake pedal. These signs can indicate problems such as warped rotors, worn-out pads and hydraulic leaks.

Causes

Brake problems are frequently caused by excessive wear and tear, since the brakes are one of the most frequently used parts of the car. Brake rotors can start to malfunction due to overstress, while hydraulic issues are due to leaks in the cylinder or valves supporting the brake system. Additionally, hydraulic problems can begin when the cylinder runs out of brake fluid.

Repair

As brake repairs on vehicles manufactured by Honda can be particularly complex, attempting do-it-yourself repairs on these automobiles is not recommended. While other car makes and manufacturers are more adept to simple repairs that can be done by amateur mechanics, it is recommended that Hondas be maintained and repaired only by certified professionals. In addition, self-repair often voids the warranty issued by Honda, and replacement parts are only offered by Honda, and Honda certified repair centers.

Maintenance

To ensure safety and reliability, it is recommended that owners inspect the condition of the brakes at least twice a year and only use hydraulic fluids that are approved by the company to maintain the brakes optimum performance. Worn-out brake pads, drums and shoes should be replaced as soon as possible to avoid further damage to the brakes and vehicle as a whole. In addition, Honda owners should check out additional parts such as hoses, fittings, calipers and wheel cylinders for wear and tear in order to avoid major brake repairs.

Significance

Your cars slightest squeaks may indicate that somethings gone wrong with the brakes, which may lead to further engine problems and even cause accidents in the long run. Having your brakes maintained and immediately repaired in the event of a problem will be significant in ensuring less costly repairs over the life of your automobile as well as the safety of you and your passengers.

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How to change front brake pads on a F650 800GS

DIY: Easy and FREE!

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How Long Do Brake Pads Last

Despite their diminutive size, brake pads are one of the most important parts on an automobile. These small devices are designed to stop a vehicle again and again for thousands of miles without failing or malfunctioning.

Considerations

The life expectancy of your brake pads depends on you as a driver. Many brake pads are rated to last from 40,000 to 100,000 miles. However, the biggest influence on brake pad lifespan is individual driving habits behind the wheel.

Function

Brake pads work by squeezing against the brake rotors to create friction. This friction slows down the vehicle, but at the same time, this wears down the pads.

Speed

Constant hard slow-downs from high speeds can reduce the life of brake pads. It is not uncommon for aggressive drivers to need to replace the brake pads more often than cautious ones, sometimes in as little as 12,000 miles.

Quality

The quality of a brake pad can influence its service life. Inexpensive brake pads made from inferior materials tend to wear out quickly; whereas brake pads made from quality components can last tens of thousands of miles longer.

Weight

Heavier loads require more friction to stop, wearing out brake pads faster. Installing heavy aftermarket components such as large speakers, tires or rims add significant weight to a vehicle and can shorten the brake life by thousands of miles.

Identification

To find out how long your brake pads are expected to last under "ideal" conditions consult your vehicle owners manual if you are using the original equipment manufacturer recommended pads. If you are non original equipment pads, the estimated life expectancy is often written on the box containing the pads.

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How Do I Remove the Brake Rotor on a 99 Mercury Cougar

The brake rotors on your Cougar are the round, disk-shaped components that the brake pads mount against, located behind each of the tires. When you depress the brake pedal, the pads squeeze the inner and outer sides of the rotor in order to stop the car. When the brake rotors wear down--as they will over time--and become defective, their ability to effectively stop the car decreases. The rotors are a necessity to you safety; you should replace them if theyre damaged, and you can do so right at home, with only a few tools. The job should take no more than 60 minutes to complete.

Instructions

1

Apply your Cougars emergency brake. Loosen the lug nuts on the front drivers side tire a quarter turn counterclockwise, using a lug wrench.

2

Raise the car just behind the tire, using a hydraulic jack. Place a jack stand beneath the frame rail, on the right of the hydraulic jack, to help support the weight of the car.

3

Remove all of the lug nuts completely, using the lug wrench. Grasp the tire with both hands and slide it carefully off the wheel studs. Set the tire to the side of your work area along with its lug nuts.

4

Remove the two bolts from the rear of the anchoring plate, using the socket wrench--the anchoring plate is what your brake caliper attaches to. Do not remove the brake calipers bolts. The anchor plates bolts are closest to the tooth ring, just below the wheel speed sensor.

5

Place a 5-gallon bucket within the wheel well, next to the anchoring plate. Lift the entire assembly--anchor plate and caliper--off the rotor and set it down on the bucket. Do not disconnect the brake line, but do make sure that its not twisted or taunt.

6

Pull the defective rotor off the wheel studs in an outward motion and set it to the side of your work area. Install the new rotor by reversing the entire removal process. You can also use this entire method to remove the other rotors on your Cougar, as well.

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How to Do a Brake Job on a 2000 Ford Mustang

Attention to detail is key in a trouble-free brake job on the 2000 Ford Mustang. Equipped with four-wheel disc brakes and a Bosch 5.3 anti-lock braking system, the Mustang finally received the stopping power it needed. In exchange for this refinement, tolerances in areas such as maximum allowable run-out are very tight when compared to previous Mustangs. Resurfacing or replacement of the brake rotors and special care when replacing the brake pads cannot be overlooked when servicing the brake system on this car.

Instructions

Front brakes

1

Position wheel chocks behind and in front of the rear wheels. Loosen the front lug-nuts one half turn. Do not remove them at this time. Raise the front of the vehicle, using a floor jack, until the front wheels are off the ground. Slide jack stands under the front sub-frame and lower the car onto the jack stands. Remove the front wheels and place them aside to prevent tripping hazards.

2

Remove the rubber dust boots that cover the caliper slide pins, and unbolt the two 10 millimeter slide pins that attach the caliper to the caliper bracket. Use a large screwdriver to pry the caliper up and off the rotor. Hang the caliper out of the way using a piece of stiff wire or coat hanger. Remove the large bolts that attach the caliper bracket to the steering knuckle. Remove the caliper bracket and slide the rotor off the hub assembly.

3

Take the brake rotors to your local auto parts store or repair shop and have them checked for thickness and run-out. Maximum allowable run-out is 0.001 inch on the front rotors. Minimum thickness is 0.970 inch on the front rotors and 0.500 on the rear rotors. Replace the rotor if it cannot be machined to these specifications. Rotors that are too thin will warp easily, and rotors that have excessive run-out will cause brake pedal pulsations and decreased brake efficiency.

4

Slip the brake rotor onto the hub assembly. Position the caliper bracket over the rotor and bolt it securely to the steering knuckle. Place the new pads into the bracket.

5

Open the bleeder screw on the top of the caliper and use a C-clamp to push the caliper piston into the caliper housing. Close the bleeder screw and remove the C-clamp. Apply a small amount of silicon brake grease to the slide pins. Slide the caliper over the new pads, and bolt it to the caliper bracket using the 10 millimeter slide pins

6

Replace the wheels and lower the car to the ground. Tighten the lug nuts one final time with the car sitting on the ground.

Rear Brakes

7

Lift the rear of the vehicle in the same manner described in Section 1. Place the jack stands under the rear axle tubes and lower the car onto them. Remove the rear wheels and place them out of the work area.

8

Remove the two 10 millimeter slide pins that attach the caliper to the rear caliper bracket. Pry the caliper off the rotor using a large screwdriver. Slide the brake rotor off the hub assembly. and have it measured and machined. The maximum allowable run-out for the rear rotors is 0.002 inch, and minimum thickness is 0.500. Replace any rotor that doesnt meet this specification.

9

Open the bleeder screw on top of the caliper. The rear caliper is equipped with an actuator for the parking brakes and requires the piston to be screwed into the caliper housing. Use a caliper piston tool to twist and push the caliper piston into the caliper housing.

10

Install the new pads onto the caliper bracket and slip the caliper into place. Apply a small amount of silicon brake grease to the slide pin bolts and bolt the caliper to the bracket.

11

Replace the rear wheels and lower the car to the ground. Tighten the lug nuts one final time.

12

Top off the brake fluid in the master cylinder and pump the brake pedal to expand the calipers into the pads.

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