How do I Adjust the Rear Brakes on a 2001 Chevrolet Blazer

The rear drum brakes on the 2001 Chevrolet Blazer can become unadjusted from normal wear and tear. Since they only account for about 25 percent of the braking power for the SUV, its important to keep the rear brakes adjusted in order to assist the front disk brakes. When the rear brakes become unadjusted, the front brakes take on the brunt of the rear brakes loss of efficiency. This will result in premature wear of the front brakes and can damage front braking components.

Instructions

1

Place a wheel wedge in front of one of the front tire treads and another behind one of the rear tire treads on the 2001 Chevrolet Blazer. Place the SUV in neutral and shut the key off (as far as it will allow).

2

Remove the rear lug nut caps with the lug wrench on both rear tires.

3

Crack the lug nuts loose with the lug wrench by turning them one-quarter turn to the left (counterclockwise).

4

Lift one rear quarter of the Blazer with the jack and then place the quarter onto a jack stand placed under the read axle. Repeat the procedure for the other rear quarter of the Blazer.

5

Remove the lug nuts and tires.

6

Locate the small, black rubber plug located in the bottom of the rear backing plate (behind the drum). Pry off the plug, using the screwdriver if necessary.

7

Shine the flashlight into the brake adjustment port to locate the starwheel and the starwheels holding clip. Get a feel for the position of the clip. It will take two hands to adjust the brakes so holding the flashlight will not be an option.

8

Rotate the drum to get a feel for how free-floating it is.

9

Insert the screwdriver through the brake adjustment port, locate the holding clip and push it away from the starwheel. Hold the clip in this position while taking the brake adjusting spoon and insert that into the port. Turn the starwheel wheel upward to expand the shoes outward or downward to contract the shoe inward. Check the movement of the drum after every three or four turns of the starwheel. A slight drag on the drum is sufficient for properly adjusted rear brake shoes.

10

Replace the plug(s), tires and lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts snug to the hubs and then lower the Blazer.

11

Put the Blazer back into gear and then torque the rear lug nuts in a star pattern to 100 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and socket.

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How to Change Rear Brakes on an Avalanche

The rear brakes on the Chevy Avalanche are comprised of a two-piston caliper, disc pads and a brake rotor. The system is very similar to the front brakes on the Avalanche, giving the truck great stopping power and keeping the brake system very balanced. The brakes are easily replaced in the driveway or garage with basic tools, and the pads are readily available at any parts store or the Chevy dealership&039;s parts department.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Avalanche and find the brake master cylinder on the firewall. Open the cover and remove three-quarters of the brake fluid using a turkey baster. Replace the cover on the master cylinder and move to the rear of the truck.

2

Loosen the rear lug nuts with a lug wrench but do not remove them completely yet. Raise the rear of the truck with a jack, then position a set of jack stands under the rear axle to support it. Remove the lug nuts and wheels from the truck.

3

Locate the brake caliper mounting bolts and remove them with a socket and ratchet. Lift the caliper off the mounting bracket and support it with a piece of wire off the suspension of frame of the truck. Remove the brake pads from the mounting bracket and discard them.

4

Position a new set of pads in place on the bracket, then install the caliper over them. Install the caliper mounting bolts and torque them to 30 ft-lbs. with a torque wrench. Repeat the process for the opposite side of the truck.

5

Install the tires and lug nuts on the truck, raise it off the jack stands with a jack, remove the stands and set the truck on the ground. Tighten the lug nuts with a lug wrench.

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On Emergency Call to Kelantan

Thursday, May 14th. I received an emergency call just before 6:00am. Got up immediately to pack-up and had to leave for Kelantan by 7:00am.

Unfortunately just after passing through Sungai Besi toll plaza there was a massive traffic jam on E2 and MRR2 all the way till Hulu Klang. It took me almost 3 hours to arrive at Gombak toll plaza from my home in SKV - lost two solid hours already. Had to eat the remaining 380km in four hours. Quite a difficult task to drive on non-expressways with heavy traffic. The GPS navigator registered ETA 3:15pm! I must drive to the extreme to reduce the journey time by at least 1hr 15minutes in order to arrive at the final destination before 2:00pm.

I was expecting it could be done with the 308THP in less than four hours though! Nevetheless I had to set the speed limiter to 190kph only. I got spirited. I like the first 40km stretch on E8 Karak Expressway where I could push the car to the extreme limits before exiting onto Federal Road #8 towards Bentong.

By the time I left E8 the GPS registered ETA 2:50pm. Then at KLipis the ETA reduced 2:35pm... and kept dropping as I sped of but just after that I had to stop [by the order of traffic police] for 10minutes or so to give way to some kind of bicycle racing.
Then I kept on tekaning the accelerator pedal all the way. By the time I arrived GMusang the ETA was reduced to 2:15pm and kept dropping as I burned 30~40% more fuel per 100km than usual. At KKrai junction the ETA reduced to 1:55pm. With 5-minutes reserve I could slow down to the speed limits... finally arrived at the destination @1:57pm safely but the EP6DT engine consumed almost 3/4 tank of fuel. Previous economy RETURN trip KL-Kelantan-KL consumption was less than one tank of 60liter gasoline covering more than 800km w/o refuelling along the entire journey.

BTW, three other cars which had left Klang Valley 1-hour earlier than me arrived between 45-90minutes later! Id overtaken them around KLipis.

|Home|Fuel Consumption|Performance|uncles DIY|Car Size Comparison|

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How to Replace the Rear Brake Rotors on a 1993 Lumina

The process for removing the rotors from the rear wheels is essentially the same as that for the front wheels on the Chevy Lumina. The disc brakes on the automobile are much easier to manage than drum brakes. This is primarily because there are no springs to deal with. You wouldnt usually change the brake rotors without changing the brake pads as well. However, you still may need to replace the rotors for one reason or another. It doesnt take very long, but when you do need to replace one, you should replace the rotors on both wheels on that axle at the same time.

Instructions

1

Park the car on a level surface and place the wheel chocks in front of the front wheels. Place a jack stand under the car and raise it up to the frame close to the jacking point.

2

Remove the wheel using the lug wrench and set it off to the side. Remove the brake caliper using a socket and ratchet to loosen the caliper bolts. Secure the caliper to the spring or shock absorber using a wire tie. You should never allow the caliper to hang or you will damage the brake line.

3

Pull the old rotor off of the wheel assembly by pulling it straight out. If it doesnt come off easily, use the rubber mallet to hit it until it breaks loose.

4

Put the new rotor on the wheel assembly. Place the brake caliper on the wheel assembly over the rotor and tighten the bolts with the socket and ratchet. Put the wheel back on the car and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench.

5

Remove the jack stand from under the car and lower the vehicle to the ground. Repeat the process on the other wheel.

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How to Remove Scratches on a Memphis Shades Windshield

Memphis Shades is a brand of customized windshield specifically geared toward motorcycles. Memphis Shades windshields are made from Lucite, which has proven to be weather resistant and have excellent clarity; but the downfall is they scratch like any other type of glass or resin windshield does. You can repair a scratch in a Memphis Shades or Lucite windshield with the help of a scratch removal product and just a few household items.

Instructions

1

Clean the Lucite windshield with a solution of mild detergent and warm water, using a soft sponge. Dry the windshield with a soft cloth and allow it to air dry.

2

Shake the bottle of Novus Fine Scratch Remover 2 very well before opening and applying.

3

Soak a dry cloth with the Novus Fine Scratch Remover 2, then wipe it back and forth over the area that is scratched. Wait a few moments for it to dry.

4

Re-soak the cloth, and polish the Novus Fine Scratch Remover 2 into the scratch by rubbing it in a circular motion over the surface. Allow about a half an hour of drying time.

5

Buff the repair with a dry, soft cloth by rubbing it over the repair in a fast back-and-forth motion.

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How to Bleed a New Master Cylinder on an Astro Van

When you change a brake master cylinder on a Chevy Astro van or any other vehicle, it will cause air to get in the hydraulic system that you must bleed out. You can speed up the process of removing air by bleeding the master cylinder before installing it--a process known as bench bleeding. You will need to do this on a surface where the cylinder can be supported without spilling fluid. The process described may also work for a number of other models.

Instructions

1

Insert threaded plugs into the master cylinders outlet holes--the ones on the sides that the brake lines will connect to. Make sure the reservoir is properly seated on top of the cylinder with its grommets.

2

Fill the master cylinder and reservoir with fresh brake fluid.

3

Remove one of the plugs from its outlet hole.

4

Push the piston assembly on the cylinder to expel air from the cylinder. Place a finger on the open outlet hole, release the piston and wait for fluid to flow from the reservoir to the piston bore--this will take several seconds.

5

Repeat the previous step, pressing the piston so it forces your finger off the hole, until only brake fluid comes out the hole, then replace the plug.

6

Repeat the previous three steps for each of the outlet holes on the master cylinder.

7

Fill and top off the master cylinder reservoir with fluid and install the diaphragm and cover onto the reservoir.

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How to Replace the Windshield Trim on a Mazda Miata

The Miata is a small, lightweight roadster produced by Mazda. It is a rear-drive car popular in autocrossing and road racing due to its near 50/50 weight distribution characteristics. The standard Miata comes with a five-speed manual transmission, though, for an additional cost, you can purchase an automatic transmission. Like most roadsters, the Miata has a convertible top. Over time, especially if the exterior trim is not taken care of, the exterior trim molding around the windshield can---and will---fade and crack. This can be an eyesore, but it can also compromise the seal around the end of the windshield allowing water, dirt and debris to get behind the molding. To prevent this from happening, replace the windshield trim if it is damaged.

Instructions

1

Clean the windshield with Windex before starting. You do not want dirt or debris to get lodged into the pinchweld area or underneath the new molding.

2

Fold the windshield wiper arm up away from the windshield until it locks into a vertical position.

3

Remove the nuts holding the wiper arms in place and pull the wiper arms off.

4

Slide the tip of the trim removal tool between the trim and the windshield. Work the tool all around the outer edge of the windshield until the trim comes off.

5

Install the new trim. The new trim is installed in the opposite way the old trim was removed. Orient the trim so that it fits tightly between the frame and the windshield. You may need to use the removal tool to align and adjust the trim as you move along the perimeter of the glass. Force the trim into place with your hand.

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HOW TO CHANGE BRAKE PADS ON A 9th Gen 2003 2008 TOYOTA COROLLA

HOW TO CHANGE BRAKE PADS ON A 9th Gen 2003 - 2008 TOYOTA COROLLA Video Clips. Duration : 3.38 Mins.

in less than 5 minutes..........

Tags: HOW TO, BRAKE, PAD, TOYOTA, COROLLA, pads, how-to, change, itsdamianlol, paintball, weapon, gun, electronics, howto, war games, diy, warfare, consoles, airsoft, car, cars, lexus, online

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How to Change the Rear Brake Shoes on a 2006 Ford Taurus

The Ford Motor Company introduced the first Taurus in 1986. By 2006, the Ford Taurus camp equipped with the option of two versions of the 3.0-liter V-6 engine. The 2006 Ford Taurus came standard with front ventilated disc brakes and rear drum brakes. Replacing the rear brake shoes on the 2006 Taurus can be challenging, and requires someone with prior mechanical experience. When replacing the brake shoes on the 2006 Taurus, replace all of the hardware associated with the rear drum brakes to ensure optimum operation and performance.

Instructions

1

Ensure the vehicle is in park and then loosen the rear wheel nuts with a tire iron. Raise the rear of the Taurus with a jack. Place jack stands beneath both ends of the rear axle beam. Leave yourself enough room to access the backing plate behind the rear wheels. Lower the car onto the jack stands. Remove the rear wheel nuts and remove the rear wheels from the Taurus.

2

Remove the rubber plug from the backing plate on one side of the Taurus. Insert a flat-head screwdriver. Set the tip of the screwdriver against the self adjust wheel inside the drum assembly. Push the "star" shaped adjuster downward to back the brake shoes inward, away from the brake drums. Tap the brake drum sides toward the front of the car and toward the rear of the car with a hammer.

3

Remove the old brake drum and set it with its opening downward, in order to dump all of the rust and brake dust out. Remove the parking brake cable from the parking brake lever, at the bottom of the brake assembly. Use a flat-head screwdriver to pull the parking brake lever up and outward from the brake assembly. Twist the lever to remove it from the cable.

4

Remove the two hold-down spring at the 3 oclock and 9 oclock positions, in the middle of the brake shoe supports. Use a circular brake spring remover to pull both springs. Remove the retractor spring from between the two shoes, using a brake spring hook toward the bottom of the brake assembly. Remove the retractor spring from between the two brake shoes at the top of the brake assembly, using the same tool.

5

Slide the brake shoes outward, away from the center of the brake assembly. Remove the self-adjuster wheel assembly from between the shoes, just behind the wheel hub assembly. Remove both rear brake shoes from the vehicle. Remove the spring retainer pin from the forward brake shoe, using a hammer and screwdriver to punch the pin out.

6

Remove the parking-brake lever pin from the other brake shoe with a pair of pliers. Pull the horseshoe pin from the brake shoe and discard it. Remove the pin from the brake shoe. Remove both brake shoes from the Taurus and throw them out.

7

Visually inspect the wheel cylinder at the top of the remaining brake assembly. If there is any moisture on or around the cylinder, this may indicate bad seals. Replace the wheel cylinders as needed.

8

Install the parking brake lever and pin into the new brake shoe. The brake shoes come four to a box. The two shorter shoes face the front of the vehicle, while the longer shoes face the rear. Insert a new horseshoe clip to lock the parking brake lever on the new shoe. Attach the parking brake cable to the rear facing brake shoe, once you have installed the lever onto the shoe.

9

Install the new brake shoes one at a time and insert new hold-down springs and pins. Use the circular brake spring tool to twist the spring end caps so they lock the hold-down pins in place. Turn one end of the self-adjuster wheel so that the adjuster assembly contracts to a smaller size, in order to allow room to install the drums on the new brake shoes. Install the self-adjuster in between the mounted shoes, with the wider slot facing the front of the car.

10

Install the brake tension springs between the upper and lower ends of the new brake shoes, using a brake spring tool.

11

Stretch the tape measure straight across the opening of the brake drum. If the brake drum opening is larger than 8 and 15/16-inches, discard the drums and replace them. Install the drums over the new brake shoes. Make adjustments in the rear of the brake assembly, using the self-adjuster hole in the backing plate. Turn the self-adjuster until you can no longer turn the brake drum by hand.

12

Install the wheel on the car where you just completed the brake shoe replacement. Install the lug nuts snug with a tire iron. Turn the wheel by hand. If the wheel turns around one full rotation and stops, the brakes are adjusted properly. If the wheel turns more than once, the brakes need tightening. If the wheel turns less than once, the brakes need loosening. Repeat the step until you have properly adjusted the brake assembly on the first side of the car.

13

Repeat Steps 2 through 12 to complete the brake shoe replacement on the second side of the Taurus. Enter the car and pump the brake pedal five to ten times to complete the seating of the brake shoes against the drums. Install both rubber stoppers back into the backing plates on the rear of the car.

14

Raise the Taurus off the jack stands, and lower the car to the ground. Tighten the rear wheel lug nuts to 95-foot-pounds of torque, using a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench and wheel nut socket.

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How to Replace a Rotor on a 4X4 Dodge

You would typically change the rotors on a 4X4 Dodge truck when you change the brake pads. Reasons why you would need to change the rotors include warping, grooves from bad brake pads, cracking, or they may just be too thin. It does not take long to replace the rotors. You can expect each wheel to take about 30 minutes to complete, and you can do the job in your driveway.

Instructions

1

Park the Dodge on a level surface, and turn the key off. Place a set of wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Raise the truck with the automobile jack. Place a jack stand under it near the jacking point, and raise it to the frame. Remove the lug nuts with the lug wrench, and take the wheel off the truck.

2

Loosen the caliper bolts with the socket and ratchet. Pull the caliper from the mounting bracket. Secure the caliper to the strut using a wire tie. Remove the retaining clips from the wheel lugs using the pliers. Pull the rotor away from the wheel assembly.

3

Place the new rotor on the wheel assembly. Push the retainer clips on the wheel lugs with the pliers. Cut the wire tie holding the caliper to the strut using the pliers. Place the caliper on the mounting bracket and tighten the bolts with the socket and ratchet.

4

Put the wheel on the Dodge, and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Remove the jack stand from under the truck. Lower the vehicle to the ground. Repeat the process on the other wheel.

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How to Adjust Slack Adjusters on Trailer Brakes

Proper adjustment of slack adjusters is essential to the functionality of trailer brakes. Slack adjusters compensate for normal wear of break linings. The slack adjuster is an arm attached to a push rod on the brake assembly. Performing a slack adjustment means simply adjusting the push rod in the air chamber to within a predetermined tolerance, thereby maintaining optimal brake performance.

Instructions

How to Adjust Slack Adjusters on Trailer Brakes

1

Before beginning your adjustment, it is important to block the tires to prevent the trailer from moving. The best way to avoid movement is to raise the vehicle on jack stands during the adjustment. Have the brake system at full pressure, lower the emergency brake, and push in the air valve, thereby releasing the brakes. Listen for any air leaks, as they can decrease your braking ability.

Using a piece of chalk, mark the push rod where it leaves the air chamber.

2

Using a screwdriver for leverage, pull the push rod out of the air chamber, and measure from the chalk line to the air chamber. That shows you the "stroke range"; anything more than three-quarters of an inch would mean the brakes need an adjustment.

3

Locate the manual slack adjuster bolt. It connects the s-cam to the air chamber on the axle housing with the push rod. Using the appropriate sized wrench, turn the slack adjuster. Watch the s-cam to see the direction it is moving to ensure you are adjusting it correctly. You can tell you are adjusting it the wrong way if the push rod is pulling out of the air chamber.

Continue tightening until you feel resistance, which means you have drawn the brake linings to the drum.

4

Reverse the slack adjuster one-quarter to one-half of a turn to put a little distance between the drum and the linings.

5

Pressurize the system and apply the brakes using normal pressure. You should have no more than one-tenth of an inch between the brake linings and the drum, and there should be no more that 2 inches of travel in the push rod stroke.

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How to Put a Window Back on a Track in a KIA Sportage

If the window in your KIA Sportage has become stuck in a stationary position, it is most likely due to the window coming off the window regulator. In order to solve this problem you need to remove the window and place it back on the regulator correctly. Carrying out this work is a rather easy task and can be completed in less than half an hour. You can find the tools you need for the task at your local auto store.

Instructions

1

Open up the door of your Sportage which contains the stuck window. Remove the screws on the inner door panel using the Phillips screwdriver. Lift the panel away from the door and move to one side.

2

Remove the two screws which fix the door handle in place. Pull the door handle away from the door. Unhook the two linkage arms inside the door that make up part of the door handle assembly. Remove them from the door.

3

Move your window regulator to its lowest point within the door. This will make it much easier to remove the window from the frame.

4

Use a hex wrench to remove the two mounting bolts which connect the window to the window regulator. Pull the window out of the door.

5

Use your hand to move the window regulator up and down to make sure it is working correctly. Place the window back in the window frame. Line up the bolt holes on the bottom of the window with those on the top of the regulator. Fix them together by threading a mounting bolt between each of the two holes. Place the door panel and door handle assembly back in place by following the removal steps in reverse.

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How to change front brake pads on a F650 800GS

DIY: Easy and FREE!

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How to Change the Master Cylinder on a Ford F 250

Ford equipped the F-250 trucks brake system with a dual-piston master cylinder. The master cylinder consists of a fluid reservoir and a cylinder body. The reservoir holds brake fluid for use by the hydraulic pistons and allows a visual check of the fluid level. The dual-piston system--one for the front brakes and one for the rear--operates when pressure is applied to the brake pedal. Hydraulic pressure from the master cylinder actuates the caliper pistons in the wheels which then press friction pads against the brake rotors to slow down the truck. Replace the master cylinder in the case of its wear or failure to keep the trucks brakes functioning as intended.

Instructions

Replace Master Cylinder

1

Raise the hood and disconnect the batterys negative cable with a wrench.

2

Loosen the hose clamp on the air cleaners outlet tube with a screwdriver, then position the tube aside out of the way. Squeeze the tabs on the mass air-flow sensors connector, then pull the connector apart. Remove the air-cleaner housing and set it aside.

3

Disconnect the fluid-level sensors connector from the side of the master cylinder. Disconnect the brake-pressure switchs connector, if there is one, from the bottom of the master cylinder.

4

Remove the brake lines from the side of the master cylinder with a wrench.

5

Remove the master cylinders mounting nuts with a wrench, then remove the master cylinder.

6

Reverse the disassembly procedure to install the new master cylinder. Tighten the mounting nuts to 20 ft-lbs. with a torque wrench. Tighten the brake lines to 18 ft-lbs.

Bleed Brakes

7

Unscrew the cap on the master cylinder. Fill the master cylinder to the full line with brake fluid.

8

Place a box-end wrench over the bleed valve on the right-rear wheel. Attach the rubber hose to the bleed valve and submerge the other end of the hose into a cup or small container partially filled with brake fluid.

9

Employ your helper to slowly and gently pump the brake pedal a few strokes, then hold the pedal down. Turn the wrench to open the bleed valve. Watch the brake fluid in the container. Close the valve when air bubbles stop coming out the end of the tube. Repeat this step until no more air bubbles come out. Tighten the bleed valve to 26 ft-lbs. Check the level of brake fluid in the master cylinder. Top off the level as necessary.

10

Repeat steps 2 and 3 on the left-rear wheel, then the right-front wheel, then on the left-front wheel.

11

Replace the cap on the master cylinder. Pump the brakes to be certain there is a solid brake pedal before before moving the vehicle.

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How Do I Remove the Brake Rotor on a 99 Mercury Cougar

The brake rotors on your Cougar are the round, disk-shaped components that the brake pads mount against, located behind each of the tires. When you depress the brake pedal, the pads squeeze the inner and outer sides of the rotor in order to stop the car. When the brake rotors wear down--as they will over time--and become defective, their ability to effectively stop the car decreases. The rotors are a necessity to you safety; you should replace them if theyre damaged, and you can do so right at home, with only a few tools. The job should take no more than 60 minutes to complete.

Instructions

1

Apply your Cougars emergency brake. Loosen the lug nuts on the front drivers side tire a quarter turn counterclockwise, using a lug wrench.

2

Raise the car just behind the tire, using a hydraulic jack. Place a jack stand beneath the frame rail, on the right of the hydraulic jack, to help support the weight of the car.

3

Remove all of the lug nuts completely, using the lug wrench. Grasp the tire with both hands and slide it carefully off the wheel studs. Set the tire to the side of your work area along with its lug nuts.

4

Remove the two bolts from the rear of the anchoring plate, using the socket wrench--the anchoring plate is what your brake caliper attaches to. Do not remove the brake calipers bolts. The anchor plates bolts are closest to the tooth ring, just below the wheel speed sensor.

5

Place a 5-gallon bucket within the wheel well, next to the anchoring plate. Lift the entire assembly--anchor plate and caliper--off the rotor and set it down on the bucket. Do not disconnect the brake line, but do make sure that its not twisted or taunt.

6

Pull the defective rotor off the wheel studs in an outward motion and set it to the side of your work area. Install the new rotor by reversing the entire removal process. You can also use this entire method to remove the other rotors on your Cougar, as well.

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How to Do a Brake Job on a 2000 Ford Mustang

Attention to detail is key in a trouble-free brake job on the 2000 Ford Mustang. Equipped with four-wheel disc brakes and a Bosch 5.3 anti-lock braking system, the Mustang finally received the stopping power it needed. In exchange for this refinement, tolerances in areas such as maximum allowable run-out are very tight when compared to previous Mustangs. Resurfacing or replacement of the brake rotors and special care when replacing the brake pads cannot be overlooked when servicing the brake system on this car.

Instructions

Front brakes

1

Position wheel chocks behind and in front of the rear wheels. Loosen the front lug-nuts one half turn. Do not remove them at this time. Raise the front of the vehicle, using a floor jack, until the front wheels are off the ground. Slide jack stands under the front sub-frame and lower the car onto the jack stands. Remove the front wheels and place them aside to prevent tripping hazards.

2

Remove the rubber dust boots that cover the caliper slide pins, and unbolt the two 10 millimeter slide pins that attach the caliper to the caliper bracket. Use a large screwdriver to pry the caliper up and off the rotor. Hang the caliper out of the way using a piece of stiff wire or coat hanger. Remove the large bolts that attach the caliper bracket to the steering knuckle. Remove the caliper bracket and slide the rotor off the hub assembly.

3

Take the brake rotors to your local auto parts store or repair shop and have them checked for thickness and run-out. Maximum allowable run-out is 0.001 inch on the front rotors. Minimum thickness is 0.970 inch on the front rotors and 0.500 on the rear rotors. Replace the rotor if it cannot be machined to these specifications. Rotors that are too thin will warp easily, and rotors that have excessive run-out will cause brake pedal pulsations and decreased brake efficiency.

4

Slip the brake rotor onto the hub assembly. Position the caliper bracket over the rotor and bolt it securely to the steering knuckle. Place the new pads into the bracket.

5

Open the bleeder screw on the top of the caliper and use a C-clamp to push the caliper piston into the caliper housing. Close the bleeder screw and remove the C-clamp. Apply a small amount of silicon brake grease to the slide pins. Slide the caliper over the new pads, and bolt it to the caliper bracket using the 10 millimeter slide pins

6

Replace the wheels and lower the car to the ground. Tighten the lug nuts one final time with the car sitting on the ground.

Rear Brakes

7

Lift the rear of the vehicle in the same manner described in Section 1. Place the jack stands under the rear axle tubes and lower the car onto them. Remove the rear wheels and place them out of the work area.

8

Remove the two 10 millimeter slide pins that attach the caliper to the rear caliper bracket. Pry the caliper off the rotor using a large screwdriver. Slide the brake rotor off the hub assembly. and have it measured and machined. The maximum allowable run-out for the rear rotors is 0.002 inch, and minimum thickness is 0.500. Replace any rotor that doesnt meet this specification.

9

Open the bleeder screw on top of the caliper. The rear caliper is equipped with an actuator for the parking brakes and requires the piston to be screwed into the caliper housing. Use a caliper piston tool to twist and push the caliper piston into the caliper housing.

10

Install the new pads onto the caliper bracket and slip the caliper into place. Apply a small amount of silicon brake grease to the slide pin bolts and bolt the caliper to the bracket.

11

Replace the rear wheels and lower the car to the ground. Tighten the lug nuts one final time.

12

Top off the brake fluid in the master cylinder and pump the brake pedal to expand the calipers into the pads.

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How to Change the Brakes on a 1997 Honda Civic DX

The Honda Civic DX coupe has a 1,590cc, 1.6-liter engine, and great fuel economy. With an engine of 106 horsepower and 4 cylinders, this zippy little car is a great middle ground between a stylish and powerful sports car and safe and practical sedan. On every car, no made how well made, over time the brake pads wear out and need replacing. This can cost hundreds of dollars at the local auto shop, but the good news is that just about anyone can change their own brakes on a Civic.

Instructions

1

Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel. To do this, use your tire wrench and turn the lugs 45 degrees counter-clockwise.

2

Jack up the vehicle. To do this, find a support strut. You can use your manual to find the appropriate strut. Lower the car onto the jack stands.

3

Remove all the lug nuts (be sure the car is secure on the jack stands), then pull the wheel off of the wheel hub and set it aside.

4

Remove the caliper mounting bracket. To do this, use your socket wrench to remove the two bolts. Then, after it is removed, tie it to the wheel well with twine to keep it from putting strain on the brake line.

5

Remove the brake pads. Loosen them and pull them free.

6

Compress the caliper. Use your C-clamp to do this.

7

Insert the new brake pads into the caliper assembly, and reinstall the caliper mounting bracket.

8

Put the wheel back onto the hub and tighten the lug nuts with the tire wrench. Lower the car with the jack and finish turning the lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs.

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Instructions for a Snap On Double Flaring Tool

The Snap-On company carries several varieties of brake line double flaring tools manufactured by Blue Point. The flaring tool sets come in metric and standard, handling 4.75 mm to 10 mm or 3/16 to 1/2 an inch outside diameter brake line. The kit contains a flaring bar to hold the brake tube, a yoke and rod handle connected to a feed screw and flaring cone for flaring the line and five adapters for measuring the tube length and making the first flare on the brake line.

Instructions

1

Cut the brake line with pipe cutters. The cut must be straight across the brake line.

2

Insert the tip of the inner/outer reamer blade into the brake line and twist it to remove the metal shavings inside the line. Turn the reamer over and remove the shavings from the outside of the brake line.

3

Select the hole on the flaring bar that corresponds to your brake line diameter and insert the brake line into the flaring bar. Measure the length of the brake line with an adapter. The line should not exceed the height of the widened step at the bottom of the adapter.

4

Tighten the wing nuts on the flaring bar to secure the brake line. Turn the yoke to the side so that it slides onto the flaring bar.

5

Place the adapter so that the side with the pin fits inside the center of the brake line. Position the yoke so that the flaring cone sits in the center of the adapter.

6

Turn the rod handle to tighten the feed screw and drive the flaring cone into the adapter. Stop when the adapter is pressed against the flaring bar. Loosen the rod handle enough to remove the adapter. The mouth of the brake line will be slightly belled. This is the first flare.

7

Re-tighten the rod handle, pressing the flaring cone back into the brake line. Continue turning the handle until the cone stops. Do not exert too much force since this will cause the brake line to crack at the seams.

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How to install H7 HID conversion kit on Peugeot 308

Step 1
HID conversion kit installation begins with the HARDEST step, i.e choosing and picking out the right HID kit - there is a large range of HID kits to choose from - costing less than RM150.... to more than RM1500 per pair! The choices are also depending on personal preferences and needs - such as color temperature and brightness.

For some people [especially ahbengs], appearance plays a large part in their purchase, and they might wish to purchase a HID conversion kit with HID lights of special colors. But take note the highest LEGAL color temperature is 4700K.
Next, make sure the kit will fit in the car headlamps properly. Some H7 anti-glare caps are designed to prevent insertion of HID tubes because the reflectors are not designed for them - Not all HID lights are compatible with all Peugeot 308!. Must check the width, height and depth.

the dome-shaped anti-glare caps of different type
Some Peugeot 308 headlights cannot accept standard 45mm H7 HID tube [restricted by the anti-glare cap design] . However there is H7RC HID measuring only 40mm .
Once the right HID conversion kit has been decided the installation can be very simple if u know how to replace the H7 bulbs and understand simple electrical connections as shown in the figure.

Step 2Remove the OEM headlight bulbs [not easy if u dont know the mechanism]

On 308 the locking pins for the H7 bulbs cannot be seen, u only can feel to push and spread the pin legs apart in order to remove the OEM bulbs before inserting the HIDs.

Step 3Replace the OEM headlight bulbs with HID bulbs.


Step 4Plug the HID bulbs high voltage leads into the ballasts HV connector provided with the HID kit. Test the HID ballast wiring for length, as HID lights use special wiring that cannot be extended.


Step 5Mount the ballasts as close to the headlight bulbs as possible. Use double sided tape to mount the ballasts securely to flat part of the chassis below the head lamp assembly.

Do not mount the ballasts else where otherwise they will be exposed to excessive amounts of moisture or heat. Once mounted, connect the OEM headlight harness [females] to the ballast input power supply [red and black wires] to trigger and power up the HIDs.


Step 6Test the HIDs for proper operation. It may take up to a few seconds for the bulbs to illuminate completely.


p/s you dont have to follow the old steps anymore!

Read also | Beam Regulation | HID Headlamp Page|

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Changing rotors and breaks on 1998 Ford F 150

Changing rotors and breaks on 1998 Ford F 150 Tube. Duration : 10.62 Mins.

How to change breaks and rotors on a 1998 Ford F-150

Keywords: brake pads, job, ford 1998 F 150, change rotors, change brakes, ronnie rokk

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